For our last night and meal in Rome, we went to Trattoria del Pantheon. The next morning we got up at 4am to get a taxi to the airport to fly home on a 7am flight.
The final destination for the trip was Rome for 3 days. I had hurt my knee on the boat and by this time had a very painful time walking, so I ended up spending the days in the hotel with ice on my knee watching the Tour de France while Gay and the kids toured Rome.
We took the boat from Forio on Ischia to Naples saying goodbye to our captain Flavio and our boat, Liberty. The first mate, Pasquale, left abruptly yesterday after getting a phone call to join a cargo ship on a 5-6 month trip through the Panama Canal, Mexico and Los Angeles and back – the start of his career.
We took a car from the port for fantastic pizza at L’Antica Pizzeria da Michelle. There was a crowd of people waiting to get in for a 1-hour wait so we got takeout instead. The place was a pizza factory that made only 2 pizzas: Margherita and Marinara. We got 2 of each. While I waited in line to get our pizzas I watched one guy flatten the dough, another put the sauce and toppings on, another guy took the pizza to the wood-fired oven and another guy plated or boxed and cut the pizzas. Over and over.
We sat across the street at a cafe that seemed to exist solely as overflow seating for the pizzeria, despite 4 other much less busy pizzerias in the same 2 blocks.
Both were great but I preferred the marinara, surprising to me, because of the garlic.
The driver gave us a short tour of Naples before dropping us at the train station. The train left right on time at 5pm.
We left Capri and went across the bay of Naples to the island of Ischia. We were caught in a torrential downpour before lunch and then it cleared up and the kids spent the afternoon jumping off the boat’s gangway. We wished we had spent more time in Ischia.
We left Amalfi this morning after breakfast and went to the island of Capri, boated all the way around it checking out the grottos and all the mega yachts, had lunch in Marina Piccola, jumped off the boat’s gangway, went swimming and floating in the Mediterranean and then docked in the town of Capri for dinner.
We spent the first full day on the boat around the coast, swimming in the water, lunch in a small bay and watched the US Women’s World Cup finale before dinner in Positano.
We had to catch a 10am train to Naples, so here we are waiting for our taxi at the “front door” of our hotel, Palazzo Barbarigo:
On the train to Naples… train travel in Europe is always so comfortable (and the trains are almost always half-full):
Simona, our yacht person and pictured on the left pouring a Sprite, arranged for a car to pick us up at the Naples train station to take us across town and drove us right up on the dock to our boat, a Fairline Squadron 60:
Minutes later, we were leaving Naples and heading across the Bay of Naples.
Mt Vesuvius, the still-active volcano that is best known for erupting and immortalizing Pompeii in 79AD:
A view that became very usual to me over the next 5 days, wakes can be mesmerizing to watch:
We dropped Simona off at a small town next to Sorrento, went past Sorrento and around the tip of the Amalfi Coast and stopped for dinner in Positano:
Aperol Spritzes are a big thing in Italy, which seem like a good idea on a hot day and are pretty, but are usually too bitter for me:
We started America’s birthday with a walk around Venice and riding the water buses on the Grand Canal.
We went to get cicchetti, small pieces of bread with various toppings that is apparently a Venice-specific food, for lunch at Cantine del Vino gia Schiavi, one of Rick Steves’ favorite places, and ate it outside standing by the canal with wine. This was Hudson’s favorite restaurant of the entire trip I think and he tried every weird thing we ordered, even discovering that he really likes salmon. We’ll see if he eats salmon at home from now on!
This is not an alley between two buildings, this is the width of a street in Venice:
Then we did some more walking/boating around Venice.
Peggy Guggenheim’s old house on the Grand Canal, where she lived the classic life of a wealthy dilletante, is now a modern art museum — the Guggenheim’s only satellite museum:
Then more walking around, another stop for cichetti at, as it turns out, a place down the street from the first place, and then dinner.
We went out to dinner just as a freak 10-minute rain storm hit and walked about 20 minutes through the university district. We stopped for cicchette and an Aperol Spritz at Bar Canton and then to dinner at a full Rio Novo Ristorante, but we got glasses of wine while we waited by the canal for a table. After dinner, we walked to the Ferrovia station and took the water bus back to our hotel at 11pm.