We got a house on Airbnb in Seaside for 3 nights and met the Carders there. But on the way we first had dinner at Pelican Brewing Co.
We spent Saturday on the beach, then walked into downtown Seaside along the Promenade by the house, drove the bumper cars, rode the tilt-a-whirl – Eva hated it, Havana loved it, hudson refused to ride it – Hudson and Bowie played miniature golf, played games in the arcade, got salt water taffy, had dinner and walked back.
We went to the beach again Sunday morning and then to Cannon Beach for a late lunch at Public Coast Brewing.
After dinner, we went to the beach, started a fire, made S’mores and played Mafia/Guardian Angel, a morbid game the kids know.
We stopped at Crater Lake on the way from Klamath Falls to Seaside. It was smokey from the California wildfires so it wasn’t clear but was still amazing.
Before driving to Klamath Falls, we went to Tahoe Mountain Lodge so the kids could swim for a couple hours. We left at 2pm and drove for 5.5 hours to Klamath Falls, had dinner at Klamath Basin Brewing Co – Gay remembers stopping there 10 years ago; I don’t.
Hudson was feeling car sick, something he sometimes complains about when driving. We picked up some Dramamine and after 10 minutes was feeling better and was back to normal. I think we’ll be buying lots of it in the years to come as we take long road trips.
I’m loving the car. I felt fine sitting in it for over 5 straight hours without even using cruise control (because of the two-lane roads most of the way)! I turned on Lane Keep Assist for the first time. It’s a little disconcerting to have the car steer back into the lane when I get too close to a line, not sure if I like it or not. We hit 1000 miles on the car on this leg of the trip.
It was a 3-hour drive to Tahoe. We packed only hot weather clothes not realizing how cold it gets in the evening in California. So on the way to Tahoe we stopped at an outlet mall in Vacaville and bought some warmer clothes at The North Face store. 50% off North Face gear is a great deal!
We were last here 8 years ago — Havana and Hudson were 3 and 1.5 years old and Eva didn’t yet exist.
All we did each day was go to the pool, enjoy the scenery, listen to Yacht Rock (Gay’s new favorite SiriusXM station) and barbecue dinners on our deck. I also read the entire Owner’s Manual for the Discovery.
I cracked the screen on my Apple Watch at the pool when it fell off a table and onto the concrete – 4 years without a scratch until now. Since the next version of watchOS doesn’t support the original watch, I have to get a new one anyway. Plus, Apple is (supposedly) coming out with a new model in the next several weeks. So assuming this one survives a little longer, it works out fine.
After a short driving tour of San Francisco – the kids were not impressed, with Lombard Street being a possible exception – we drove over the Golden Gate Bridge in a deep fog and north to Napa, stopped for lunch at the very cool Oxbow Public Market, and then to our house at Carneros Resort and Spa.
The kids, especially Havana, loved the place. We went to the pool for a couple hours, I ran to a nearby grocery store for dinner and we had a nice dinner outside in the house’s courtyard. It was very chilly.
We stayed here 10 years ago when we only had Havana and Gay was pregnant with Hudson.
We had a long drive ahead of us. We got really good doughnuts for breakfast at Surfside Doughnuts and ate them on the pier, then a short walk on the beach before checking out of the hotel.
We took the longer but more scenic drive up Highway 1, aka the Pacific Coast Highway. Somewhere along the Pacific Coast Highway:
The very foggy 6-hour drive was an 8-hour drive due to traffic into Carmel. We got to our hotel in San Francisco at 8:30pm.
We wanted a quick dinner and there is an In-N-Out Burger 3 blocks away. Perfect. That was my first experience with In-N-Out: good burger, bad fries. Oct 23 2018 Update: I came across an article about In-n-Out Burger; the company is owned by a drug-addled and dysfunctional family and hypocritically uses the business as a Christian propaganda machine. Never again!
After weeks of scouring the country for a Land Rover Discovery with the options and colors we wanted, and running into roadblock after roadblock, I got one in LA yesterday. Instead of shipping it back we decided to drive it back and make a trip out of it. It works out well because we don’t have childcare while Maddie is vacationing with her family in, of all places, Germany; we can’t get much work done while also keeping the kids active.
Our flight to LA was scheduled for 6am so we woke up at 4am, got the already-packed kids up and dressed and were in an Uber by 4:35am and on our way to the airport. Then we got a message from JetBlue that our flight was delayed 2 hours. That extra 2 hours would’ve been appreciated for sleeping!
While waiting at the gate, I was sitting next to a guy who was also flying to LA to pick up a car that he bought.
On board, we had free WiFi and I could watch the second half of the Steelers/Eagles preseason game via DirecTV:
We landed at Long Beach Airport (hot!) and took another Uber to Land Rover Encino. LA traffic is insane. We met our super nice sales guy and 18-year Land Rover sales veteran, Bill, who I had been phoning/emailing/texting with for a couple weeks. He showed us the car, let us drive it and handed me off to the finance guy (Shaquille O’Neal look-a-like) while Gay took the hungry kids to lunch next door, then Bill gave us a tour of the car and helped us get it connected to the iPhone apps and to the internet. Our car is on the internet and even has a phone number.
I didn’t have good experiences with most of the salespeople at Seattle Land Rover dealers but I liked Land Rover Encino (the largest Land Rover dealer in the west?). When we upgrade to the Range Rover I’ll come back here and do this trip again.
We took the train from Cologne to Frankfurt for our last day of the trip. We didn’t get to do much in Frankfurt other than have lunch, do some shopping and get ready to fly out early the next morning.
Breakfast before leaving to the airport:
Trip observations & notes:
- There are generally at most four beer choices in Germany: light (as in color, not in calories), dark, wheat and Pilsner. You almost always have two of those, usually three and rarely all four. Brands don’t matter at all, you order “Helles” (light) or “dunkel” (dark), “Weiss” (white for wheat) or “Pilsner”. There is never two beers with the same style from two different breweries. That is very unlike the US beer market. The US has come a long long way in beer in my lifetime.
- There is no nuanced technique to beer-pouring — beers are poured roughly down the middle of the glass to release much of the carbonation and create a huge head of foam, often with a top-off pour. Lagers are traditionally carbonated at higher levels than ales but lagers in Germany are not “spritely” like they are in the US — they are almost creamy because they were poured so roughly. At Optimism, we teach the servers to pour beer in one motion down the side of the glass and time it to deliver the “perfect” amount of foam on top for each style. I think I’d like to get even more over-sized mugs for our lagers and pour them German-style with 2 inches of foam on top!
- “Craft beer” in Germany is disappointing – muddy flavors, poor fermentation and cloudy. I just stopped looking for and ordering them. I don’t understand why they can’t make quality beers given the culture is so beer-centric and their big breweries make very high quality beers. My guess is that anyone who leaves the big breweries to start small breweries never learned the science of brewing, they simply learned the rote practice and it doesn’t translate to anything other than making Pale lagers.
- Germany and the Czech Republic are averse to credit cards. Cash-only places are all too common. I expected Germany to be far more modern. Do Germans really carry $300 around in cash all the time?! Seems like easy prey for muggings.
- People don’t care about World Cup soccer as much as I’m led to believe in the US. Lots of bars and restaurants have the games on TV but most people were disinterested. Maybe because Germany fell out of it in Round 1.
- People smoke too much in Germany and Czech Republic — they rank 32nd and 7th, respectively, on the worldwide smoking list, whereas the US ranks 68th. And they seem to chain smoke, smoking 2-3 cigarettes in an hour of sitting. Coming from Seattle, where it’s unusual to see anyone smoking (mostly hipsters), it’s surprising.
- Google Maps makes everything so easy and is surprisingly accurate with European travel. But it was wrong a few times with train schedules and bus stops.
- Apple Maps and the Watch integration was nice for walking. I wish Google Maps didn’t drop their Apple Watch app.
- The famously no-speed-limit Autobahn has a lot of speed limits. 100 km/h (62mph) and 120 km/h (75mph) seem to be the norm with some short stretches of no limit. Max speed I got to was 172km/h (106mph) and I was going faster than other cars. I don’t think the Autobahn is any faster than US highways but the drivers seem to stay in their lanes more than in the US.
- It’s harder to watch the Tour de France while in Europe than in the US where the stages can be watched (or recorded) live but all I can find on TV in Germany and France are short broadcasts of the end or just summaries and are on late at night, as in 11pm or later.
We made a one-night stop in Cologne (Köln, to Germans) to drink Kölsch – Cologne’s contribution to the beer world. Kölsch is the only beer appellation, meaning you cannot legally call your Kölsch beer a “Kölsch” unless it’s made in Cologne. Cologne banned lagers in the 1800s so all breweries in Cologne were forced to make ales. A Kölsch is essentially a pale lager made with ale yeast. Even though the ban has been lifted, no breweries in Cologne make anything else. Interestingly, the famous Rothschild family did build a lager brewery after the ban was lifted but it failed. So still there are no lager breweries.
My sister, my brother-in-law and one of their daughters were recently in France visiting their other daughter, Sarah, who lives in Paris. We just missed them being in Europe by a few days so we couldn’t meet up with them but we did get Sarah to visit us in Cologne:
It seems like all beer served in Cologne is Kölsch (although I did spy a Pilsner once) and it is always served in 200ml (less than 7 fl ozs) glasses called a “stange“. Folklore about Cologne says that they keep bringing you these small beers until you put your coaster on top of the glass to signal them not to. That didn’t turn out to be true in our experience, we had to order another just like any other beer.
There are 4 or 6 historic Kölsch breweries and we made it to two of them, Päffgen and Früh and I was able to taste a third historic brewery, from Sion, at our hotel (in a 400ml stange even!).
Päffgen is a small brewery that dates to the mid-1800s and was and still is a family brewery that only serves their beer at their restaurant. This is the beer garden that sits between the indoor restaurant and their brewhouse, which can be seen through the glass in the 3-story building (note the wall-mounted old school valves, sight glass and, I think, a lauter grant):
Früh is located closer to our hotel and the train station and comprises of 3 buildings on a square where they have outdoor seating:
The Cologne Cathedral:
Cologne is also known for having the oldest cologne maker, hence the name. Eau de Cologne (“water of cologne”) has been made by 4711 for 200 years. I meant to buy cologne in Cologne but didn’t get around to it, unfortunately.
Our train leaving Strasbourg was at 9am so we had a quick breakfast, Uber’d to the train station and got the TGV train (150mph!) to Mannheim and then a connection to Cologne.
I like the Strasbourg train station:
Au revoir France!